Especially for Mark…
As promised in the last thrilling blog post some Menite
stuff has been painted and now photographed.
Below are some of the fruits of my labours over the past couple of
weeks as well as a bit of painting info:
Templar
The Templar for the Feora2 list was once a Crusader, from
the Starter Set, I painted it up whole (without magnetising). I used a razorsaw to remove the Crusader’s
mace and added magnets to these parts allowing for the Crusader to be
re-assembled when the need arose. I also
added another tiny magnet into the open fist allowing for the Templar’s shield
to be added. I tried to pop off the
Crusader’s head so that I could magnetise and swap this, but unfortunately it
was glued too well. Below are a couple
of shots of the completed Templar:
Templar, ready to beat face! |
Feora2
Following on from the Templar I painted the good lady herself;
Feora2. I originally assembled the whole model for
gaming purposes, but when it came to painting I cracked the glue joins and
removed her from the epic base. Given
that her epic base is basically a big bonfire I needed to be able to get a brush
to all of it, additionally it would allow me to paint from underneath the model
easily and do a thorough job on her cloak and chainmail.
Feora2 front view |
Painting Gold
Feora2 side view |
Feora2 rear view |
Feora2 front vie |
I followed the standard Menoth colour scheme for her cloak
and armour etc, but I’ll elaborate on the gold a little more: the model firstly
took a heavy drybrush of P3 Rhulic Gold
with a second coat to strengthen the colour.
The next step was to do a further drybrush of P3 Solid Gold, this was applied less heavily than the first in order
to add highlight, rather than obliterate the effect. Drybrushing is often seen as a less advanced
technique and somewhat negative, but I find that it takes some skill
and a lot of practice to get the consistencies and technique right for the desired effect. The gold at this stage looks strong and there
should be definition from black undercoat in the deepest crevasses to Solid Gold on the highest points. I usually allow the paint to cure for a short
while between coats as drybrushing can be quite abrasive, a good idea is to do
several models at once. After the
drybrushing is complete and the paint hardened a little I add my own gold wash,
it is basically Citadel Chestnut Ink
and P3 Mixing Medium and clean water.
The chestnut colour adds warmth and richness to gold whilst not matting
the sheen, however inks tend to pool and streak so medium is essential to get a
proper wash. I add clean water to simply dilute the
strength of the ink. I’ve found that the
mixture needs to be strong enough to be seen, but not so strong it removes the
dark to light gradient generated by the drybrushing, this is inevitable to a
certain extent, hence the next step is to re-drybrush Solid Gold, but only lightly.
A good tip is to ensure the wash is 100% dry and had some time to cure
before drybrushing as this mistake will ruin everything…
In summary the two P3 golds are really good,
they provide a strong coverage and a rich colour, but the wash is what makes
the effect really work; hopefully you can see it in the photos.
Feora2 base (no flash) |
Feora2 base (flash) |
As you can see above in the photos of Feora2 she is standing
on a bonfire, this was a pain in the arse to do and hopefully it looks like
fire, I started from a black undercoat, as I’d sprayed the whole model months
ago, possibly not ideal I thought, but I don’t have any more white, so I tried
a top spray of grey primer and did a couple of heavy drybrushes of pure
white. I then tinted the whole thing
with Citadel Wash
Baal Red. This gave me the deep red in the nooks and
crannies up to a lighter red where the Citadel Skull White had chance to make a strong coverage. Next I layer painted Citadel M. Solar Orange onto the
flames higher points, using the lighter red washed areas as a reference. I attempted to layer paint P3 Cygnar Yellow onto the previous orange,
but found it did not lay well, therefore I painted Citadel Skull White instead. Then,
over the top of the white I applied the Cygnar
Yellow, the white giving me a good foundation to make the Yellow work. Finally I layered Skull White onto the top most flaming highlights. The result was a layered flame effect from
dark red through orange and yellow, up to white. Similarly to the gold I made a wash to pull
the shades closer together- the mid shade being orange, so I mixed Cygnar Yellow with P3 Khador Red Highlight and lots of medium
and some clean water. The resultant wash
was applied in several layers and had the effect of lightening the reds and
darkening the yellows and tinting the white to the desired effect. Washing will bring colours closer together
and I managed to remove the stark changes in red/orange/yellow/white whilst
preserving the illusion of depth
Next some Zealots and Menofixer action! But until then feast your eyes on this bad
mutha:
Judicator, photo obtained from the PP Menoth forum |
Thank you Nick!
ReplyDeleteThey are very good!
May be worth you creating a page for compiling your painting tips.
Cheers Mark, thought you might like a mention!
ReplyDeleteYeah it might be an idea to group some of the painting and tactica articles, I'll have a look at doing that ASAP.